| Avoiding Wildlife Problems
Managing
Raccoon Problems Raccoons
(Procyon lotor) are common throughout California. They are medium
sized animals 12 to 35+ lbs. and 20 - 40 inches long, including a bushy
tail with 4 to 7 black rings. The fur has a salt and pepper appearance
with the black mask marking on a whitish face characteristic of the
species.
The tracks of the raccoon are very distinctive. The hind foot is long,
narrow, and rests flat on the ground like those of a bear. The front
paw
is hand-like, with toes that are long and well separated. This permits
the use of the front paw with almost the facility of a monkey's hands.
Biology Raccoons breed mainly in February and March,
but matings may occur from December through June. The gestation period
is about 63 days. Most litters are born in April or May, but some late
breeding females may not give birth until June, July, or August. Raccoons
produce one litter per year. The average litter size is 3 to 5 young.
The offspring are weaned between 2 and 4 months of age and usually stay
with the female until the following spring. Yearling females do not always
breed but adult females normally breed every year, especially if food
is plentiful. The diet of the raccoon is extremely diverse.
They will eat fruit, berries, grain, eggs poultry, vegetables, nuts, mollusks,
fish, insects, rodents, carrion, pet food and garbage. Individual animals
may learn to use specialized foods such as poultry, fruit crops, small
livestock, or garbage by watching other raccoons. Contrary to popular
myth, raccoons do not always wash their food before eating, although they
frequently play with their food in water. Raccoons are nocturnal or night-time active
animals. Urban raccoon populations are frequently underestimated because
people seldom see them traveling during the day. They are also territorial,
particularly the males. Adult males may occupy areas of 3 to 20 sq. mi.;
females have a much smaller territory of 1 to 6 sq. mi. Raccoons den up
in hollow trees, drain pipes, homes and buildings, under decks and storage
buildings, brush piles and abandoned burrows.
Damage Raccoons can cause substantial damage. In
urban areas, raccoons damage buildings (particularly attics and roofs),
gardens, fruit trees, lawns, garbage cans and trash containers. They are
also attracted to pet food left outdoors and will attack pets. Occasionally,
one or more raccoons will establish a communal toilet area resulting in
time to the deposition of a large number of scats. In rural areas, raccoons
may feed on farm crops or raid poultry houses. A raccoon typically attacks
birds by biting the head or upper neck area. The heads of adult birds
are usually bitten off and left some distance from the body. The crop
and breast may be torn and chewed and the entrails eaten. Raccoons have
been known to mutilate poultry in cages by pulling heads or legs off.
Several kills may be made during a single night raid with part of one
or more carcasses fed upon. Dead fowl may be at the kill site or dragged
several yards away. Raccoons are also serious predators of wild bird populations.
Reports indicate that raccoons have been responsible for eliminating local
populations of some nesting waterfowl.
Diseases Since free roaming wildlife does not receive
veterinary care, all wildlife species can carry diseases and parasites.
Raccoons are known carriers of rabies, canine distemper, encephalitis,
histoplasmosis, trypanosomiasis, coccidiosis, toxoplasmosis, tularemia,
tuberculosis, listeriosis, leptospirosis, roundworms and mange. They are
also infested with fleas, ticks, lice and mites which are known transmitters
of disease. Children and pets are particularly at risk.
Problem Prevention Raccoons are attracted to urban areas by
the easy accessibility of food, water and shelter. Reducing or eliminating
the availability of all of these factors will encourage raccoons to leave.
Tight fitting lids should be kept on garbage cans; pets should be fed
during daylight hours and any leftovers removed immediately; water bowls
should be emptied or taken inside at night; gardens should be frequently
harvested and windfall fruit picked up. Food should never be intentionally
left out for wild mammals. Raccoons can be excluded from buildings by
covering foundation vents with slotted metal vent covers and by using
1/4 inch grid screening to cover attic vents and chimneys. They have been
known to enter homes through pet doors; be sure these are locked at night.
Raccoons sometimes take up residence under a low deck. They
may be excluded by using 1/4 inch grid screening or solid metal flashing.
Trench around the perimeter of the deck a minimum of 12 inches deep, insert
screening in trench and backfill. Attach top of screening to facade of
deck with nails or fence post staples. Before completing final seal on
the last entry point, it is wise to make sure no animals are trapped inside.
On the night before completing repairs sprinkle flour in the entrance
hole and check for tracks the following morning. If no tracks are evident
for 3 consecutive nights, no animals are likely to be present. You may
wish to make a temporary one way exit using 1/4 inch grid screening. Form
the screening into a cone or funnel shape that will permit animals to
leave but not to re-enter. The large end should be sized to encircle the
entry hole and be attached over the hole to the facade of the deck or
building with nails or fence post staples. The small end should face away
from the house and be 4 - 6 inches in diameter. Raccoons may be kept away from roof areas
by trimming tree branches 10 feet from roof and by keeping climbing plants
trimmed away from root and eave areas. Exclusion of raccoons from coops and poultry
yards is usually the most practical and effective method to prevent losses.
At night, poultry should be kept in raccoon-proof sheds or houses. Ideally,
poultry should be confined day and night in a sturdy house combined with
a predator-proof outdoor run area. This also provides protection from
many other types of predators. Often, with a few simple tools and a little
material, even somewhat dilapidated coops can be rejuvenated into raccoon-proof
condition. Keep in mind that raccoons are good climbers. Moreover, they
are strong animals capable of seizing and pushing or pulling objects with
considerable force. Usually raccoons are not inclined to break through
walls or fences that are intact and in reasonably good condition. Entry
is usually made through open, weak, or loose places. Following is a list
of measures you can use to protect poultry from raccoons.
-
Cover
tops of outdoor runs with wire mesh and/or suitable paneling material
and fasten securely. If this is not practical, shut poultry indoors
at night.
-
Patch
or repair all holes or weak places in existing wire or wood (house
or run).
-
Check
all edges of overlapping or stapled chicken wire for tightness and
tie or staple securely.
-
Check
ground edges of coop for tightness. Raccoons may dig under fencing
or enlarge existing spaces.
-
Coop
doors should be close fitting and sturdy. Beware of plywood doors
which may have substantial warp at corners.
-
Simple
door fasteners, such as plain hooks, should be replaced with more
sophisticated devices such as safety hooks or locking hasps. Raccoons
can manipulate and open elementary door latches.
-
To
prevent raccoons from reaching in and grabbing poultry, night roosting
or standing areas should be at least 12 inches away from cracks or
wire mesh of more than 3/4 inch sq. spacing. Smaller size wire can
be installed near roosting areas.
-
Birds
housed in wire or plastic cages should be kept within the confines
of raccoon-proof buildings at night. An alternative solution is to
hang or suspend cages from ceilings at least 4 feet above the floor
and 5 feet away from walls.
The use of a watch dog may prove advantageous
in preventing damage in some situations. However, this is not recommended
due to the fact that raccoons can be extremely vicious. Raccoons causing lawn and turf damage may
be encouraged to leave by controlling the grub worms or other subsoil
insects that raccoons eat.
Direct Control Where raccoons become so numerous that they
are a serious pest, they must be excluded or removed. In rural areas,
nuisance and damaging raccoons may be trapped or shot. Since raccoons
are classified as furbearers, a trapping license or depredation permit
may be required before taking any animals. In urban areas, trapping with
baited cage traps is the most satisfactory way to remove raccoons. Since
raccoons and skunks occupy similar habitats, it is advisable to cover
the top, bottom, and sides of an open grid cage trap with heavy cardboard
or 1/4 inch plywood. Place the trap in raccoon trails or in areas of known
activity. Almost any food is acceptable as bait to trap raccoons. Using
fruit, berries, vegetables, raw egg, or peanut butter instead of meat
will reduce the likelihood of trapping neighborhood cats. The addition
of a wadded up piece of aluminum foil in the trap may help to stimulate
curiosity. There are no Federally registered chemicals
to control raccoons. Approved chemical repellents have not been found
to be effective.
Laws and Regulations Raccoons
are not threatened or endangered. They are classified as furbearers
in California. Fur harvest regulations
are set by the California Department of Fish & Game. A trappers license
or depredation permit may be required before taking any raccoons. It
is
a violation of California state law for any wildlife to be kept as pets.
Only authorized wildlife rehabilitators may keep injured
or orphaned wildlife, and then only for limited periods of time. California
Department
of Fish & Game Regulations prohibit the relocation of raccoons and
other wildlile without written permission of the Department.
For further information on the legal status of raccoons and other wildlife,
contact your California Department of Fish & Game Regional Office. For further information or assistance in
solving raccoon problems, contact your local agricultural commissioner. |